• 11/02/2023
  • By wizewebsite
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Investing in a quality suit will return.How much and what do men spend?<

After discovering that a man needs a new suit, the next question is where and what kind to get. It has three options, which differ in terms of financial and time requirements, material quality and the proportion of manual work.

Ready-made suits are made according to given measurements, which may not fit everyone. Especially when it comes to sleeve length or shoulder measurements. Men decide to buy a ready-made suit due to limited finances and time constraints. Their price is reduced by the lower quality of the material and the production abroad in series of many thousands.

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The low-quality materials are mainly polyester is used, which does not wrinkle, but is highly impermeable. The advantage of buying ready-to-wear is that it is time-saving. The customer chooses a suit and can immediately leave with it after paying.

Men's jackets and trousers can be found in fashion chains for around 4,000 crowns. However, the materials are not very high quality. Cheaper models are made of up to 70 percent polyester. A jacket made of a mixture of cotton and cashmere can be purchased for under three thousand crowns. However, the problem is still with the polyester lining that most jackets are lined with. More expensive ready-to-wear offers suits from significantly higher quality materials starting at ten thousand crowns.

If the customer decides on ready-to-wear, it is necessary to be more careful and not completely obey the advice of sellers. It's a good idea to save a few hundred crowns for the services of a seamstress, who will fix minor flaws - shorten trousers, adjust the length of the sleeves. When choosing, it is necessary to focus primarily on the size of the dress in the shoulders. Trying on a jacket is not to be underestimated. Even a more experienced seamstress cannot correct the wrong size of the shoulders.

The middle way between ready-to-wear and tailoring is made to measure. The customer is dressed in a trial jacket, which is pinned and then adjusted according to his measurements and body proportions. The order of such a jacket includes optional lapel shape, type and number of pockets, slits. You can also dictate the material of the top, lining or buttons.

Three-part jacket

The highest possible class is tailoring, which is professionally called bespoke. This is high tailoring, comparable to sewing women's dresses in haute couture studios. Of course, the jacket here is composed not of two parts, as in the case of ready-to-wear, but of three – the upper part, the mat and the lining.

Investment in a quality suit will pay off. How much and what should men spend on?

The middle layer, which is made of horsehair, adds a third dimension to the suit. It gently hugs and perfectly follows the shape of the body. When it comes to movement in a bespoke jacket, it is more flexible. It can also be used to cover minor character flaws. A mat is sewn to the top and bottom of the jacket along the entire length of the body with small stitches.

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The term full canvas is used to describe this type of jacket. However, you can also choose a cheaper option, the so-called half canvas, where the jacket is lined with mat only from the shoulders to the waist area.

Creating such clothing requires considerable tailoring skill. The principle of creating a custom suit is a high proportion of handwork, which includes, for example, hand-stitched buttonholes.

Tailoring involves an average of three trials with a tailor who is able to make a men's suit in around five weeks. The price level here is mainly influenced by the choice of materials. In general, however, it can be said that the average price of a custom-made suit is around 20,000 crowns. However, if the customer decides to invest in the highest quality fabrics and makes 100% use of the tailor's skill, no price is too high.

Blue, not black

Although black is firmly rooted in Czech politics and society as an ideal color for any occasion, it is more a matter of clothing suitable for a wedding or the theater.

Owning only one model of this color is completely insufficient for a man moving in business, politics or in the office and with a diary full of meetings with high-ranking company representatives or business partners. The ideal color for daily wear is dark blue.

The lapels of the fitted jacket fit close to the body and do not flap. The collar hugs the neck. The sleeves blend naturally and do not wrinkle when standing straight. Fashion designers change the length of the jacket and shorten or lengthen it according to trends. However, the universal rule says that the front ends at the base of the thumb.

Put on a suit! – serial seducer Barney Stinson's most important commandment. Exceptions were only allowed if he was seducing a woman who hated suits or was severely depressed.

The choice of details and individual elements of the suit itself depends not only on etiquette, but also on fashion trends, taste and personality of the owner. The larger the figure of the customer, the wider the lapels should be. In business fashion, the very narrow lapel profile is now the most popular.

Pockets again have several types. Straight pockets are referred to as English, while slanted pockets are Italian style. A business jacket will most often be equipped with pockets with a flap, while a more sporty suit will have pleated pockets and formal wear will have pockets with flaps.

When it comes to the back of a suit, one slit looks more sporty, two more elegant, while a back without a slit is common for a tuxedo. Nobody can be limited in the color of the lining. Gentlemen can match it with a suit or, on the contrary, choose a significantly contrasting shade and thus attract attention when taking off the jacket.

After the tailor's first question as to what occasion the gentleman wishes the suit to be made, he will probably be followed by an inquiry as to the number of buttonholes and their rows. Single-breasted suits are more modern and flatter most figures. The number of buttons here ranges from one to three, with two buttonholes being the golden mean. The three-button fastening is more outdated, shortens the lapels and unflatteringly elongates the torso.

The double-breasted jacket looks very festive with its military style. While one row of buttons is functional and used for fastening, the other row is only decorative. You can choose from 4x 2, 6x 1, 6x 2. The first number indicates the total number of buttons, the second number indicates the buttons intended to be turned on.

Length of trousers has recently become a popular topic of discussion. The current season is defined by very short pants that expose the entire shoe, gently touch the binding and reveal the sock. However, general rules can also be followed. The pants touch the heel at the back, fit half way through the lacing in the front, and curl up to no more than one fold at the ankle. Pants that are too long are considered a deficiency and are often a sign of men who are not interested in dressing appropriately.

Although Silicon Valley billionaires refuse to wear jackets and stubbornly stick to black turtlenecks or cotton T-shirts, the jacket with trousers still confirms the rule - the dress makes the man and the suit makes the man. However, only a high-quality and well-fitting suit can emphasize the personality and social status of its wearer.